The Colca Canyon is one of the deepest canyons in the world, and it’s no less than twice as deep as the Grand Canyon in the United States. Thanks to its relatively wide expanse, the Colca Canyon is perfect for trekking adventures. As you descend deep into the canyon, you’ll be constantly amazed by the most stunning views. Here, you can truly feel like you have nature all to yourself. Hiking through the Colca Canyon is undoubtedly one of the coolest activities during your trip to Peru. Join us as we guide you through our three-day route through the canyon and share all the tips you need!
The Colca Canyon is one of the deepest canyons in the world. The name "Colca" refers to the holes seen in the canyon. These were used by the Incas and earlier populations to store food, such as potatoes. They were also used to bury prominent figures. During the Spanish colonization, many churches were built, which can still be admired in places like Cabanaconde and Chivay. In 1980, a road was constructed, making the canyon accessible by car from Arequipa.
The canyon is famous for the Andean condor, one of the largest birds in the world. When they fly through the gorge, it is possible to see them up close, sometimes as near as 16 feet (5 meters). The most popular spot to observe condors is the 'Cruz del Condor,' just outside Cabanaconde.
We did a self-guided three-day trek through the Colca Canyon. With a reasonably good fitness level, this is entirely doable, and you don’t need extensive hiking experience. Below, we share a five-day itinerary, including travel to and from the Colca Canyon. Of course, you can adjust the route to suit your preferences.
The Colca Canyon is about a 5-hour journey from the city of Arequipa. You can also travel to the canyon from Cusco or Puno, but these involve longer distances. From the bus station in Arequipa, we took the Andalucía bus company to Cabanaconde. Other bus companies like Milagros and Reyna also operate this route. There’s little difference in price and comfort, so choose based on the schedule that suits you best. Keep in mind that the buses make frequent stops, with travelers and vendors constantly getting on and off.
Once you arrive in Cabanaconde, you’ll notice there isn’t much to do. It’s a small village and feels far from touristy. In our opinion, the best place to stay is Homestay Pachamama. This is a true backpackers’ hostel with clean rooms and a great restaurant. The manager, a very friendly Argentinian man, takes the time to inform you about the area and the various hiking options. You’ll also receive a detailed map of the canyon filled with practical tips and information.
On the first day of the trek, you actually have two options. You can choose to start the hike to Llahuar Lodge directly, or you can first head to the viewpoint 'Cruz del Condor'. This is the most popular spot to see condors, and the best times are early in the morning or late in the afternoon. The viewpoint is about a 20-minute drive from the hostel, and usually, several travelers go there, so you can share a taxi. The hostel owner will surely provide information about this. If you plan to visit the viewpoint, you should leave around 07:00 so that you can be back in time to start your hike. If you skip the viewpoint, we recommend starting your hike between 08:00 and 09:00.
On the first day, you’ll hike from Cabanaconde, at 3300 meters (10,827 feet), to Llahuar Lodge, at 2100 meters (6889 feet). It’s a steep descent, where you’ll go down to the Rio Colca river at the bottom of the Colca Canyon. The route is about 11.5 km (7.1 miles), and it will take around 4 to 5 hours, depending on your pace and how many stops you make along the way.
There’s a good chance that a dog will join you on the hike. Many stray dogs around the Colca Canyon walk along with tourists, usually hoping for a snack. We had a lovely black dog that accompanied us the entire first day.
Llahuar Lodge consists of small cabins where you can sleep. A cabin with a private bathroom is a bit more expensive, but it’s also considerably more luxurious than the cabins without bathrooms, which are basically just small sheds with a bed inside. We upgraded on-site and felt it was definitely worth it. There’s a large building where you can eat in the evenings and mornings, order drinks, and relax. There are also thermal baths by the river, but we found them not very well-maintained. We were there during the rainy season, so it might be better when the river is lower. Not all of the baths were open.
The next day, after a hearty breakfast at Llahuar Lodge, you’ll continue your journey towards Sangalle. Sangalle is at 2100 meters (6889 feet), which is roughly the same as Llahuar Lodge. However, the route starts with a steep climb to 2800 meters (9196 feet). Along the way, you'll pass some charming villages where you can stop for drinks or snacks. It's not always clearly marked where the shops are, so be sure to ask the locals where you can buy something. The final part of the route is downhill, which can be a bit tough after the previous day. The path is also steep in some sections, but manageable. After around 4 to 5 hours, you’ll reach Sangalle via a bridge near a waterfall.
Sangalle is an oasis with many lovely accommodations. We stayed at Sangalle Cielo Lodge, and we highly recommend it. There’s a pool, plenty of space to relax, and the owner is happy to prepare drinks and snacks for you.
On the last day of the trek, you climb from Sangalle back to Cabanaconde. These are fairly close together, but you need to climb 3,937 feet (1,200 meters). You can expect the climb to take about 3 hours and definitely don’t start too late. The climb is really tough, and as it gets warmer and the sun shines directly on you, it only gets harder.
Luckily, you can take regular breaks along the way and enjoy the amazing views of the canyon and Sangalle. As you climb, Sangalle gets smaller and smaller until it disappears from view, and you’re nearly at the top of the canyon. At the end of the trek, you can buy some food and drinks if needed, and it's about another 15-minute walk to Cabanaconde.
Not in the mood to make the climb up? Mules also go back up from Sangalle to Cabanaconde. These leave very early in the morning around 5:00. You can ask at your accommodation to reserve a mule. The mules climb up in a little over an hour. After that, it’s about another 15-minute walk to Cabanaconde.
Once you're back at your accommodation, it’s time to relax or possibly head straight to Chivay. Chivay is a little more than an hour from Cabanaconde and is a larger town. There are more restaurants than in Cabanaconde, a beautiful church, a nice central square, and a covered market.
The next day, you can choose to travel back to Arequipa from Cabanaconde. Another option is to take a shared taxi to Puno or Cusco. There are often other travelers at your accommodation with the same plan, so you can share the taxi costs. At Homestay Pachamama, you can ask if there are other travelers planning to go and if you can join them.
From Chivay, the 4M Express bus departs three times a week to Cusco and Puno, provided there is enough demand. We didn’t take this bus because they couldn't confirm in time whether it would run. During the high season, it’s likely to be available.
The entrance fee for the Colca Canyon is 70 soles (about $19) and is valid for three full days. From Cabanaconde, you can start the trek without a ticket. Just outside the village, you will come across someone where you can purchase a ticket. It is important to keep the ticket safe, as it will be checked again when leaving the canyon.
The best time to visit the Colca Canyon is during the dry season between May and November. You can also visit the Colca Canyon outside this period, but there is more rainfall and it’s often cloudy and misty. Certain trails may also be closed. We visited the Colca Canyon in March and found it perfectly manageable.
When you start hiking from Cabanaconde, you will only need to bring a daypack. You can safely leave your backpack or suitcase at Pachamama Hostel or another accommodation in Cabanaconde. It's important to pack in layers. During the day, you will be moving a lot and it can be quite warm, especially when the sun is shining. However, it can cool down significantly in the evenings.
Also, check out our packing list for Peru for more tips and a complete packing list.